Another in a long line of smashing sparklings from our St. Matthias vineyard: a crisp, dry, extremely refined aperitif-style wine absolutely bursting with fruit (crunchy apples, pale stonefruit) and complexity (creamy suggestions of freshly churned butter, Danish pastry, roasted cashew and pistachio). Texturally it’s voluptuous and rich, but not overbearing—there’s a softness and persistency to the mousse that prevents things getting bogged down. Drinking exceedingly well now, but has the hallmarks of something special if given time in the cellar.