A bright, vivacious white (although there’s some golden tinges in the glass), it starts a little subdued but as it warms it reveals expanses of sweet, fleshy yellow stonefruit, tart mango and a hint of cantaloupe, underpinned by a smooth, creamy oatmeal note (and a suggestion of star anise). A vibrant, warm vintage is on full show here, with just enough oak coming through to ensure that—while it’s drinking superbly now—it’ll still thrive with another year or two in the cellar. Don’t drink it too cold.