While this mid-weighted museum release was likely astringent in its youth, age has bestowed considerable favors. Aromas of currants, mint, tapenade, dried sage and mulch. The finish is a little clipped, but the delicious mid-palate, with notes of beef bouillon and umami, warrants a second and third glass. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

-Ned Goodwin, jamessuckling.com 93 points