Eleven years in the cellar show a riesling really hitting stride, with a voluminous nose of fruit (apple, pear, dried citrus) and complementary elements (roasted hazelnut, toast, flint and a hint of petroleum creeping in). Still very energetic on the palate, it’s big, bright and perfumed: more citrus and orchard fruit plus a baked-biscuit roundness. The vibrancy and freshness have it drinking brilliantly now, but it’ll continue to develop for several more years.