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Ten years on lees and another couple in the cellar could sometimes cause a wine to lose a bit of lustre. Not so here, with the St. Matthias Vineyard fruit being given full voice in a vigorous, spectacularly refreshing sparkling. Grapefruit-driven acidity gives way to a lovely nuttiness and a hint of brioche when drinking, but it’s the intense, almost defiant—given the maturity—freshness and vibrancy that’ll hook you (and keep you coming back).
‘Screechingly refreshing … a compact, precise and vibrant sparkling.’